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Dundee flirting!
SIMPLY PUT....
The bitch should have all her vaccinations current, and a negative brucellosis test
approximately 30 days before her heat cycle. A progesterone test may be advantageous if it's
the bitch’s first heat and/or past experience suggests the cycle may be slightly inconsistent.
The stud should have all current vaccinations and should be tested periodically, or after any
natural breeding whereas the bitch has not had a brucellosis test.
TEN STEPS - COOL & FROZEN
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Typically
the female will ovulate between 7-14 days
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Progesterone
tests should be done every other day.
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Tests
in the first five days will usually progress from about 0 to 1.8 to
2.5 reading.
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When
the LH or Luetinzing Hormone SURGES, you will see this in the blood
count and in the ovulation. Normally not present.
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The
Progesterone level will then begin a constant rise (i.e.) 3.5, 4.5
to 5.5 and up.
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From
the LH spike, 24-hour period, day four is the female's most fertile
day or more eggs are present.
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Implants:
Surgical, Cervix and AI
a. Surgical usually gets the best
results.
b. Cervix is like AI, but uses a
camera to confirm the semen
has been implanted properly.
c. AI can't confirm that the semen has been implanted
beyond the cervix.
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I've
had good success when we have inseminated between 24-48 hours from
the time the female had a progesterone test result of 4.5 to 5.5 or
more.
- Note: This timing is from the
date and time of the progesterone test and usually will occur
between the 8th and 11th day of the female's cycle.
ote: This timing is from the
date and time of the progesterone test and usually will occur
between the 8th and 11th day of the female's cycle.
Example: Tuesday's 10:00am
progesterone test result is 5.0, then we would inseminate
Wednesday afternoon or Thursday morning.
When doing an implant or artificial insemination, the
leuteinizing hormone (or LH) test, is an important benchmark in the cycle. In its most general terms, the LH spike in the cycle initiates
the onset of ovulation which, in most cases, does take place in four days, with, less than an
approximate 24-hour window.
The following veterinarian summary is provided by George McKay,
DVM. Dr. McKay is a
reproductive vet in the coastal communities of Monterey and Santa Cruz and offers large
animal mobile veterinary services. We thank him for providing us with a comprehensive
summary for breeding in natural, cool and frozen semen settings.
BITCH
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Prior to breeding,
the bitch should be in good health, brought up-to-date on vaccines
and in good body condition. A bitch that is too heavy can easily
lead to a dystocia, and a bitch that is too skinny has no reserves
and may abort or have problems in the post parturient period. We
want her immune system in top shape with acceptable antibody levels
so she can pass on across the placenta and in the colostrum (first
milk). Also, we don’t went to vaccinate during the pregnancy.
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Pre-breeding
culture. There is a controversy as to the efficacy of a pre-breeding
culture. Certainly, you may pick up a hidden problem, but usually
you only culture normal bacterial flora. It then clouds the issue
because the presence of bacteria does not necessarily correspond to
disease.
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When the bitch
comes into heat, she physically shows with bleeding, swelling of the
vulva, and being attractive to male dogs. Some bitches will have
quiet heats, some will have obvious heats. There is quite some
disparity in how long it takes for a bitch to be fertile after she
starts her heat (literature references are three-30 days). The
average time is ten days from the first signs of heat. There are
various tests that can be used to determine the optimum breeding
time using either progesterone or leuteinizing hormone (a.k.a. LH).*
Progesterone test is done every other day, usually starting at day
six, while LH testing is done daily, beginning on day four to five.
* For the more
technically-oriented person, here is a summary of the hormone cycle.
In the bitch, estrogen levels begin to fall which triggers LH to spike
(this is a quick event which is why you must test for it daily). After
the LH surge, progesterone starts to rise, and it continues to stay
high throughout the pregnancy regardless of whether or not
fertilization occurs (this is why bitches can go through false or
pseudo-pregnancies). Because progesterone stays high, we can afford to
test every other day without missing the event. Forty-eight hours
after the LH surge the bitch will ovulate, and it takes another 48
hours for the eggs to be ready to accept the sperm. Therefore, we
suggest breeding on days three, five and seven post-LH surge, or if we
are doing a surgical implant, we do it on day four post-LH
surge.
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When it has been
determined that the bitch has ovulated, either cool semen can be
shipped or a natural cover scheduled or frozen ready to administer.
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Vaginal cytology can also be
used as an aid In determining where a bitch is in her cycle. By
taking a swab of the cervical tissue your veterinarian can
assess the influence of estrogen and progesterone. In my
opinion, this testing is not accurate enough for shipped
semen, however it may be adequate for a natural cover.
Surgical Implant timing is best done by LH testing because there
is only one chance to cover, and LH testing is the BEST method
for testing when using frozen semen, because frozen semen is
more fragile and does not survive as long in the bitch.
- Fresh semen lasts up to four
days In the bitch, while cooled semen will last about half as
long. Frozen semen has the shortest longevity of
approximately 24 hours. After ovulation, the eggs will
last about 72 hours. The key is having healthy sperm waiting for
healthy eggs.
Failed pregnancies in the bitch
are usually the result of Improper timing.
STUD:
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The stud should be in good
health, and should be tested and found negative for brucella
canis before breeding.
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I advise that any male being
used In a breeding program have his semen checked prior to
needing his services. This allows the veterinarian to determine
his viability and it gives time to work through any problems
before the bitch's ovulation clock is ticking. A stud that has
not been used for awhile will need to be collected prior to
breeding to "clean out" the epidydimus where the sperm
are stored.
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A stud should be collected no
more than every other day, as he needs time between collections
to build up numbers of viable sperm. A typical collection
requires one billion sperm cells with approximately 80%
motility.
George McKay, DVM
Mt. Madonna Veterinary Clinic
Monterey, California
mmadonna@ix.netcom.com
831-722-6800
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